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Selasa, 15 Maret 2016

diy aquaponics kit uk | Me at Aqua Journal vol 210

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diy aquaponics kit uk


Me at Aqua Journal vol. 210, since when I can speak Japanese? Thanks to Endo-san for translating it.



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Minggu, 06 Maret 2016

diy aquaponics japan | Seneye Reef review

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diy aquaponics japan



Recently I bought seneye home during Aquarama 2013 for S$149 (US$120). It come with free upgrade to seneye reef which actually the one that I really want. I wanted a PAR (Photosyntecthically Active Radiation) meter that senye reef able to measure. The other feature such as thermometer, pH meter, NH3/NH4 meter, dissolve O2 meter, are good to have but I dont really need it. The ability to connect to database server and able to view from anywhere using mobile phone is great but again I dont really need it. Basically I bought it because of the PAR meter.

Seneye website says it is ideal for planted tanks but to be honest it is not really. For example, the pH can only measure 6.4 to 7 but in planted tank especially if you are using ADA aquasoil, the soil will normally maintain pH of around 6 to 6.2. They do plan to release new slider which is suppose to be able to measure lower pH. Nevertheless it is the cheapest PAR meter available in the marked today, compare it to Apogee MQ-200 which cost US$349 + US$80 delivery charge.

The differences between all 3 seneye model

It is ingenious design, the whole sensor is basically a light/color sensor and thermometer. pH and Ammonia was measured using small plastic piece called seneye+ slider. On the slider, there are two square pad in which my guess will change color depending on pH and ammonia level then the light sensor read the color. That mean the same device can be use to measure many different water parameter, just need different slider.

seneye+ slider


According to the seneye website, the PAR function should be use only to measure against light reading taken from other seneye device or seneye PAR organism table (plants or corals). According to seneye normal PAR device are aimed for use in greenhouse where they are more interested in red spectrum. Seneye PAR meter on the other hand is more sensitive at light below 450nm. Im kind of disappointed, because its means I cannot compare my data with other hobbyist around the world who are using other brand PAR meter. Furthermore the plants list (seneye PAR organism table) is very limited, just fraction of the freshwater plant species that I can get from my LFS. I do wish the come up which software patch for the measurement. It should not be that difficult, my guess it is just gain coefficient.


Using seneye PAR meter Im able to find out why I cannot grow red plan on my 2ft where I have no problem in my 3ft. My 3ft PAR measured on water surface is around 200 uE m2sec where as my 2ft is only 150 uE m2sec. I need to match up my 3ft if I want to grow red plant in my 2ft tank.

Below are 3 days worth measurement on one of my tank. The NH4 dip was because I turn off the filter, interestingly pH is also increase during the filter off at the same time as NH4 dip. There defenetly connection between to but I do not know why. I need some googling to find out. Amonia level stable at 0.005 ppm.  Temperature stable at around 28.5C. Dissolve O2 stable at 7.7ppm although Im expecting it deep during night and go up during photosynthesis.

Final word, it is a great product with affordable price. Although a bit disappointed due to its PAR response curve different that other PAR meter but it is sufficient if I just want to compare between my own or friend tank.

P.S. all pictures are from seneye website except for the 3 days masurement


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Senin, 29 Februari 2016

diy apartment aquaponics | Photography New to me Canon EOS 20D camera

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diy apartment aquaponics


My new camera is a lot like my old camera in so far as they both take pictures, and they are both 8 megapixel cameras.

But after that they diverge a bit.

The Sanyo Xacti that Ive been using for the last 1300 photos Ive taken was gifted at me by someone (Thanks anonymous company) when I really needed a replacement because all the point and shoot digital cameras Ive bought to make this blog (I think its 3 now) fall over just after 5000 happy snaps.

5000 seems like a lot when I put it in print, but in terms of time, that equates to less than a year per camera.  Sure they cost less than AU$100, but I still want more than a year out of anything I buy.

This one that Ive been using is still going strong, and does a pretty good job of it I suppose, but I found the interface very heavy going.

It has quite a few options and features, but all of them have to be accessed via a clunky multi-level menu system. That means that every time you want to do anything other than what its set to do now, you have to explore a stack of menus to finally find what you need, and by the time youve found it, the ladybird has finished eating its aphid, and flown away.

My new camera on the other hand is a zillion times better to work with. Ive only had it for around 10 hours, but it already feels comfortable.

Its taken around 1200 pictures so far in its life.

I have very greasy fingers.

Im eating zucchini and haloumi fritters.

Delicious.


The new camera is a Canon 20D. It was originally sold for around AU$1500 (Australian dollar) in 2004, and was described as a "semi-professional" or "prosumer" camera at the time, which of course means substantially more than other imaginary words and their associated imaginary metrics.

But on the whole, the camera rocks.

Thats my official rating out of 5.

It has a 4 GB CF memory card, which is the size of a bulky circa 2012 64GB mp3 player, and that cost around the same as a bulky circa 2012 64GB mp3 player. It takes a while to transfer photos, but it has very nice functionality, and best of all has an interface that works.

It also comes with some nice lumps of glass in the lens. It seems to be the lens that lets down lots of little point and shoot cameras. The quality of the photos taken by my new 8 megapixel camera is a lot better than those Ive taken with an 8 megapixel point and shoot style camera.

The second lens feels a bit like it might blow away, but at $10 its a very nice thing to have around.

The camera came with a Canon 18-55mm f3.5 image lens, with image stabalizer. Ive just discovered I love image stabalizing. Image stabalizing allows you to be a bit shakey, and have the lens do some stuff to fix it.

As I understand it, there are exactly two ways to do image stabilizing.

  • 1. Project an image onto the censor, so that the image is a little larger than the censor, and the image has some extra image in the margins. Then have the camera track your shakey projection, and then use magic or software or something to knit together a nice crisp image.
  • 2. Track some points on the image, and move the lens around a bit so that any given point on the censor always sees the same bit of the image, or move the censor to achieve the same thing.
  • 3. Use gyroscopes mounted on at least two axes to resist the movement of the entire camera. Things spinning around like to keep doing it. If you take the tire off your bike (stop first) and hold the axle while someone else spins it as fast as they can, it becomes difficult to change the angle its on. This is why a spinning top (do they still have those?) stays upright, and is simply due to the universe being an amazing place.
Amazing!

The camera shows its age through its 8 megapixelness, as at the time of writing, thats about 16 megapixels short of where it should be.

I bought it from a second hand camera store in Japan for $150 with the Canon 18-55mm zoom, and I got the second lens, a Tamron 100-300 zoom, for $10 from the bargain bin.

Thanks Tom.

Toms a friend of mine.

Hes really good at buying way too much camera gear from junk bins. His hobby includes buying those instamatic film cameras that were big in the 70s. He likes to buy them when they have rolls of film still in them so he can process the film. In some subtle way, thats slightly different from buying some old photos.

Which is nice.

For him.

Hes kind of a time traveller, but he only gets to look, and doesnt get to choose what he looks at.

Mostly he gets to look at darkness.

Sometimes darkness, but with slightly mouldy edges.

Luckily, I dont suffer from collecting things other than my collection of odd people I know.

Toms one of my favourites.

Thanks Tom.




120 Things in 20 years - One of the best parts about getting my new, second hand Canon 20D camera, was getting to look at the Japanese supermarket junkmail it was packed in. Its been 20 years since I was in Japan, and the junkmail paper is now of even better quality.



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